Backsplash in Kitchen
November 24 - 25, 2015
After creating a faux granite
counter top in my kitchen
(See this here...), I wanted
to install some type of backsplash.
One reason for wanting to do a backsplash, is to
cover-up some of the areas that keep developing
cracks. These areas are:
- between the wall and
- the drywall seams above the opening
over the kitchen sink, and
- along the cabinet
moulding and the walls.
I am tired of caulking
and painting these areas every 3-4 years.
Cracks that keep reappearing between
counters and walls
The initial problem I had, was
determining how much materials I would need. From
what point do I take my measurements? On one
wall, I needed to decide where to end the
1) Do I end the backsplash under the last cabinet?
2) Do I end it above the countertop?
3) Do I end it at the edge of the window?
4) Do I just do the whole wall?
I stop the backsplash?
Since I was only going for the temporary fix, I went
with option one. From there I took my
The other odd feature to this kitchen is the opening
by the sink that goes to the dining room area.
The wall on the right side is only 2.5" between the
opening edge and the moulding on the side of the
cabinet. There is also such a small section of
wall. I decided to extend the backsplash to
cover the entire wall.
So whatever backsplash I was going to install, it could
not have a design that was wider than 2.5" or it
would just look odd being cut off.
around opening by sink. On the right side,
there is only a 2.5"width of wall in one section
I then went online to see my
options for a backsplash.
Is it just me? Or is anyone else getting tired
of all the "oohs" and "aahs" over white subway tiles
and glass mosaic backsplashes? They have been
all the rage on the DIY TV shows for the last 2
years. So guess what I decided not to use.....
1) I wanted something that would go up fast
2) I needed something that would camouflage
the textured wall underneath. I was not going
to take the time and effort to scrape down the
texture on these walls.
3) I needed a pattern or style that would look
OK in narrow and wider areas of my walls.
decided upon the Fasade Faux Tin Tiles from
The price for a 24" x 18"
pvc tile is $19.98. According to my
measurements, I would need 6 tiles for my
These tiles are also available at the big
box hardware stores and other websites.
But they may not have all the styles,
colors, and trim that you may need in one
Fasade Ripple in Bermuda Bronze
This particular web site had
everything I would need in one spot.
Everything meaning, the accessories like the trim
and outlet covers that you may need for the color
you decide on.
The color I decided on was the Bermuda Bronze.
It was a little lighter than the other bronzes.
Originally I had decided on the Hammered design but
I then saw their "Sale" tab. I discovered that
the Ripple pattern in Bermuda Bronze was going for
$9.98 per tile. At 50% off, this was a deal!!!
I also ordered 3 of the 4 foot long J-trim. A 18"
corner trim and a package of outlet cover laminate.
The total cost for everything including tax was
$83.46. Shipping was free on orders over $70.
A note about the Bermuda Bronze color. The
colors are metallic. In the image above it
looks like a reddish brown and beige. The colors are
more of a brown and gold, instead of beige.
I received everything via UPS 8 days after I placed
my order. Everything was packaged well.
Even though the UPS driver threw the one box over my
locked gate, nothing was damaged.
The first thing that needs to be done is to prepare
the surface after you remove your outlet covers and
anything else you have attached to the walls.
The tiles are supposed to be installed on a clean
flat and slightly roughed up surface, if shiny.
My surface was not flat because of the painted
orange peel texture. I did knock down some
high spots and ran some sandpaper over the surface
and wiped them down.
walls prepped for backsplash. Stove pulled out
from the wall a few inches.
The instructions they provide
with the tiles are clear. BUT the instructions
are for the installation of the tiles in a 24" x 18"
format. Installing the tiles from the left to
With this pattern, I had decided to install the tiles
in a 18" x 24" format. I wanted the ripple
pattern to run vertically, up and down. Not
Why am I doing this? Dust. For anyone
who lives in a desert region.... you know. The
dust is a constant battle. I need to dust my
walls constantly. If there is the slightest
bump on a wall, the moulding on a six panel door,
ANY horizontal surface, dust will accumulate on it.
So I decided to install the backsplash with the
pattern running vertically so I won't have to dust
To install the tiles with the pattern vertically you
should then, theoretically, work right to left. Again I am
doing my own thing. I will install left to
right. BUT I am doing this slowly with a lot
of thought before each cut. I need to make
sure each tile has the flattened overlap edge on the right
side for the overlap.
Not mentioned in the instructions is the protective
plastic layer on the tiles. The first tile I
worked with did not have it. It was only after
I saw a milky look on another tile, that I looked at
it closely. I needed to search the internet to
see if anyone had come across this. They did.
Regarding the tiles I received, 2 did not have the
protective layer and 4 did. You will need to
remove it. One piece was installed by accident
with the plastic on it, which I was able to get off
the tile easily enough on the wall.
Protective film on some tiles. Note flattened edges
used for overlaps.
These flattened edge are only along two sides. A
long edge and a short edge.
Because I was installing the
tiles backwards for a vertical installation, this
meant my tile pieces had the flat edge on the
bottom, instead of the top. So I just cut this
portion off when I had to.
Why did I install from left to right? I wanted
to finish the area behind the stove so I could push
the stove back against the wall.
tiles placed on walls behind stove
The one thing you may need to do,
where the backsplash tiles meet your counter top
edge, is to paint the wall along the edge a darker
color. I noticed a few areas where you could
see a bit of the white wall peeking through.
If I had known this would happen when I painted my
counter top, I would have moved the masking tape up
a little on the wall and allowed the counter top
paint on the edge of the wall. So if you are doing a countertop and
backsplash facelift combo, remember to do this. What
I ended up doing was touching up these areas with a
tiny artist paint brush using the onyx black black
from my countertop kit.
Also, you may decide to use the j-trim or edge
moulding along the edge of the counter top. I
did not do this because of the dust issue. If you
use the j-trim, it should hide the wall completely.
In the photo above, I did use the j-trim on the far
left side against the wall and along the top edge
below the microwave.
In retrospect, I should have used the j-trim along
every edge where the backsplash met the ceiling and
the edges of all the cabinets. If you want
cleaner looking edges all over, do this. The 4
foot trim piece is only $2.15. When ordering,
add a couple more on your order than you originally
planned for. You will probably discover later,
during installation, an area where you could have used it.
Backsplash installed on the rest of the walls.
Outlet covers covered with laminate.
The above picture shows the
backsplash on all of the wall areas. I did
have a little of the tiles left over. I was
lucky and made no major mistakes. I used just
one tube of the Locktite adhesive they recommend.
There is enough of the outlet
plate laminate to cover 6 standard size
outlet covers. If you have the wider
outlet covers, it will only cover 4.
With some small scraps I had, I covered the
outlet cover screws. You can barely notice
this from a distance.
Another alternative to covering the screws, is to
dab them with some brown paint if the screws are
white. If the scraps fall off, I will do this.
Outlet cover screws covered with scrap
One area still needs a little work
top of the opening by the sink.
I used the J-trim on the
right and left side of the opening, but did not have enough for the
top. There is also one more issue here
moulding at the top that is attached underneath the
If you look closely at the photo
below, you will see the left side is lower.
Yes, I could tear out the moulding and replace it.
But this is too much work for a kitchen that I
eventually want to tear apart. Also, I always
find other problems underneath anything I remove in
this house. Easier at this time to just cover
So I need to:
Install a piece of moulding that covers the edge of
the backsplash at the top of the opening
AND hide the crooked moulding at the top of the
AND gives the illusion that everything is
wonderfully straight and square (ha ha)
AND do this with only the existing moulding scraps in my
around opening that needs something to cover bottom
edge of backsplash and
hide crooked moulding at the top of the opening.
(With flash on camera)
piece of trim painted metallic hammered brown, which
is over bottom edge of backsplash and even with the
moulding under opening. Added thin piece of
polystyrene moulding along top edge of backsplash
(Without flash on camera. Actual color of backsplash
showing gold )
The photo above shows what I did.
I had a piece of 2" pvc trim that I had routed out a
lip on. I had routed it out for something
else, but decided not to use it at the time.
Now I had a use for it. I had some Hammered
Brown spray paint from another project and painted
it after cutting it to size. The brown
trim is 46-5/8" long. The lip of the trim went
over the bottom edge of the backsplash. The
thicker part of the trim was nailed right into the
moulding. I leveled it out so you could only
see about a 1/4" of the white moulding. On the
opposite side of opening, you cannot see the brown
trim unless you look under it.
Along the top edge of the backsplash above the
opening I placed a thin piece of polystyrene shoe
moulding. I first painted the moulding the
kitchen white color, glued it on with some clear caulk, caulked
the seam between the polystyrene and ceiling, and
then painted the ceiling seam. I used clear caulk on
the seam between the polystyrene and the backsplash.
Now this section of the backsplashed wall, looks a
little more square.
Of note about the color of the backsplash. The
photo with the added brown trim is closer to how the
color is in person. The brown is a medium
brown and the beige is actually gold.
I could have placed the brown trim all around the
opening and got rid of the j-trim on the sides.
But remember my criteria. I needed to use a
scrap I already had in my garage. I did not
have enough to go all the way around.
The next thing I worked on was the artwork on the
wall where I decided not to put the backsplash.
the details about the artwork here...