Laurel's Adventures in Home Repair
  laurellynn.com/HomeRepair/

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Vintage Look - Industrial Style
Rolling Cabinet

Cabinet I designed and made to store DVD's and to hide the cord mess along one wall in the Living Room.

December 5,  2018 - January 5, 2019

Against one short 52" wide wall in our living room, are three outlets. A standard electrical outlet, a cable jack, and a surround sound wiring system.  The first two, are outlets that are common on an inside wall. 

The third, is just stupid.  This surround sound system has about 10 cables sticking out from a hole in the wall.... left by the building contractor.  Like we were going to immediately call a surround sound contractor to install speakers around the house, when we moved in June 2018. Fat chance of that e-v-e-r happening.

There are too many cables to poke into the wall cavity.  I could just cut all of the cables off at the wall and slap on a blank wall plate. Which I may do eventually.  In the meantime, I bought one of those cable organizer boxes and squished them inside.  End result? Still looks stupid, but it is orderly looking.


Empty wall

Why Am I Building A Cabinet?

1)  This wall just looks empty. A cabinet would fill the space nicely and store my husband's large DVD collection, books, or whatever else needs to be stored. 

2)  To hide all of the outlets and wiring mentioned above.

3)  Searching the web, I could not find a ready made cabinet that was the size and style that I wanted. 

4)  I have been wanting to try my hand at making a decent piece of furniture.
 


Surround sound cable mess


Design Considerations

1)  The cabinet must be on wheels so it can be moved around when needed.

2)  The cabinet will be over 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide.

3)  The cabinet will have doors to keep dust off the contents except for one section, that will have open shelves for a lamp or decor.

4)  The shelves will be adjustable except for the center shelf, which will be fixed to provide support.

5)  The stain/paint that will be used will be a dark walnut color to match the wood throughout the house.

6)  All furniture, that I have been purchasing for the open areas of house, needs to be dog proof.  There can be no areas of the furniture that a dog can chew on.  There must be metal legs and edges on the furniture. No exposed wood edges.  Which means.... industrial style furniture.
Cabinet Plans

Before buying any supplies, I went to my graphics program to design the shelf.  Because this cabinet will be in the house, I wanted wood that did not need a whole lot of sanding, like plywood does.

So at the same time, I went online with a hardware store website.  I needed the actual measurements of the wood to do my design.

The cheapest pre-cut wood, I could get from the local Lowes, was whitewood (Think SPF wood, Spruce, Pine, or Fir).  I would be using 1" x 12" wood boards which actually measure .75" x 11.25".  They had the 4, 6, and 8 foot boards I would need. Knowing this, I created the basic frame for the cabinet.

Three 6-foot boards (green) attached with screws to 4-foot boards (purple) at top and bottom.  Center 4-foot board will be cut to fit in-between vertical 6-foot boards On the front of the cabinet 1" x 3" whitewood will be used to finish off the edges.  Shown above in light gray.
I will then add 1" x 3" whiteboard as trim on the front.

With the frame done, I then went on to complete the overall design of the cabinet.  See image at right.

The doors of the cabinet will have some type of pattern made from reclaimed wood.

Around the edges of the cabinet, there will be aluminum corner pieces painted oil-rubbed bronze.  Every 3" there will be a "rivet".  The rivets are actually upholstery tacks.  It will have the look of a steel frame.  I am using 16 gauge aluminum angles instead of steel because of all of the holes I will need to make.  Aluminum is just softer to punch through.

The casters will be the metal type seen on industrial furniture.  However, I will need to cover the metal wheels to protect my ceramic tile floors.

Each closed cabinet area will have 3 shelves.  The shelves will be adjustable using straight 5mm shelf pins.


Proposed cabinet design

I had some black hammered butt or H hinges on-hand that I will use on the cabinet doors.

The cabinet will have decorative right angled corner pieces for support and decoration.
Material Purchases

With my design done, I could create my shopping list for the hardware store.  Because I am making a piece of furniture where I care about the wood.  I went in person vs. an online purchase to select the wood.

The whitewood board and most of the other wood, aluminum corner angles, paint, screws, finishing nails, and Flex-Tape were purchased in-person at Lowes.  The rest of the items were bought on the internet.
Casters

I actually purchased the casters a few months ago.  I saw them on Overstock.com. back in June 2018.  I had no immediate plans for them, other than to use them on a piece of furniture...eventually.

The problem with heavy metal casters like this?.....the metal.  If you have a carpeted floor, no problem.  However, if you have hardwood or ceramic tile floors, you risk damaging the floor rolling this wheel over it.  Best to use casters with some type of plastic or poly cover on hard floors.

However, I really wanted to use these casters.  This cabinet will rarely be moved.  I could place a small throw rug or towel under the wheels when I needed to move it.  OR, I could place something over the wheels, like rubber, to provide protection to the floors.  I thought of painting on a rubber surface.  There are a few of these products on the market. Then I saw the Flex-tape at the store.  Same rubber as the paint but much neater to apply. Placing the Flex-Tape over the wheels will provide the floor protection I need.

(Note - every time I look at these casters on the website, the name changes.  As of 1/8/2019 it changed to "Porch & Den Newport" from "Gray Barn Brick House".  They were "Haven Home" when I bought them 6/14/2018.)

Gray Barn Brick House Large Metal Black Casters
https://www.overstock.com/Jewelry-Watches/The-Gray-Barn-Brick-House-Large-Metal-Black-Casters-Set-of-4/14416719/product.html?refccid=ZGK6Q62SDMZIE6SOGBDXXLFKNU&searchidx=19
 

Faux Rivets

I actually wanted smaller nails or tacks for the rivet look on the edges of the aluminum corner angles. However, I could not readily find them and I wanted something more decorative looking than a regular nail or screw. 

What I did find a lot of, where upholstery tacks.  All kinds of tacks in different colors and styles.  BUT the one consistent size was 7/16".  So I had a choice between smaller less decorative nails or larger upholstery tacks.  I went with the tacks.

There was no way that these tacks could be hammered through 16 gauge aluminum.  So I needed something that would punch a hole through my aluminum angles before I put the tacks on.  So I found a hole punch for metal up to 16 gauge steel.


Neiko 02612A Multi-Purpose Power Hole Punch Kit,
3/32" x 9/32"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/
B0002T87CW/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Decotacks Upholstery Nails/tacks 7/16" - 100 Pcs
 [ Dark Antique Brass Finish] DX0511DAB
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/
B00W1CTOAM/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Corners

For the corners of the cabinet, I wanted a metal bumper or guard to cover the edges of the aluminum angles on the edges.  Easier said than done.  I did finally settle on the one pictured to the right.  However, it was not my first choice after 3 days of searching.

These corners are easy enough to find for a small box or a trunk, but not for large furniture.  I needed to find a corner that was more than an inch from left to right and up and down so the corner of the aluminum angle will be covered.



Antrader 8pcs Metal Box Corner Protector Edge Safety Bumpers Furniture Corner Guard Bronze Tone 2.8" x 2.8" x 1.2"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/
B07CV625R7/ref=
oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shelf Pins

For the adjustable shelves, I wanted something simple.  Straight pins with a little vinyl sleeve were all that I wanted.  The pins will be hard to see with a black sleeve on them.  The sleeve will also keep the shelves in place.  (I just love the names of these items, where the seller uses as many keywords possible to describe the item.)

Glarks 50-Pieces 5x25mm Dowel Pin Stainless Steel Shelf Support Pegs Pin Rod Fasten Elements https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/
B07F3TWSBY/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jocon SF9000 PVC Flexible Vinyl Round End Caps Shelf Organizer Tip Caps Wire Thread Protector Cover (Inner Dia 5mm, Black)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/
B071HBB9HR/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Reclaimed Wood - For Cabinet Doors

Bought this reclaimed wood online.  I have no idea where I can find a lumber yard in my area that will have reclaimed lumber.  This was the cheapest boards Home Depot had.  I could find nothing like this at Lowes.

Weaber 1/2 in. x 4 in. x 4 ft. Weathered Hardwood Board (8-Piece)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-Weaber-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-4-ft-Weathered-Hardwood-Board-8-Piece-27862/207078140

Cabinet Pull and Corner Brackets



Liberty Hardware P27604-WI-C Ironcraft 3 Inch Center to Center Handle Cabinet Pull
https://www.build.com/liberty-hardware-p27604-c/s1330672?uid=3169139


Richelieu BP9544125900 4-29/32" Long Traditional Corner Bracket for Barn Doors
https://www.build.com/richelieu-bp9544125/s1247178

Backing on Cabinet

Instead of wood on the back of the cabinet, I used dry erase / chalk board material for the back of the cabinet.  It just happened to fit the size of this cabinet, was cheaper, and did not need to be painted.

Ihttps://www.lowes.com/pd/23-85-in-W-x-0-118-in-H-Dry-Erase-Board-Chalkboard/1000458191

Cabinet Door Hinges



Colonial Style H or butt cabinet hinges 3.5" x 1.5" Matte Black Finish - pack of 2 hinges - bought about 3 years ago at Lowes (no longer sold there)
Item 0229484, Model #32155PKXLGLW2000009-012016. Distributed by L G Sourcing, Inc.

Wood Purchases

Background of upper left cabinet section

Severe weather 1.5" lath
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Severe-Weather-10-Count-Pressure-Treated-Spruce-Pine-Fir-Lath-Common-1-1-2-in-x-6-ft-Actual-0-375-in-x-1-5-in-x-6-ft/1000082637
 
Cabinet Door Base (Back

Maple plywood
https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-4-in-Maple-Plywood-Application-as-2-X-4/1000351247
 
Cabinet Door Trim

Severe Weather (Common: 1-in X 2-in x 8-ft; Actual: 0.625-in x 1.375-in x 8-ft) #1 Treated Lumber  - Yellow Pine
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Severe-Weather-Common-1-in-X-2-in-x-8-ft-Actual-0-625-in-x-1-375-in-x-8-ft-1-Treated-Lumber/50441838
Material Costs for Rolling Cabinet
   
3 -- 4 foot long  - 1 x 12 whitewood (.75 x 11.25 actual) $26.85
3 -- 6 foot long - 1 x 12 whitewood (.75 x 11.25 actual) 43.83
3 -- 8 foot long - 1 x 12 whitewood  (.75 x 11.25 actual) - for shelves 55.11
4 -- 8 foot long - 1 x 3 whitewood  (.75 x 2.25 actual) 15.96
1 - 32 oz can Minwax Polyshade Satin finish - Espresso 11.95
1 - 32 oz can Minwax Polyshade Satin finish - Pecan 11.95
1 - Wood Flat Phillips # 8 x 1 3/4 in.  (Bubble pack of 75 screws) 5.22
1 - Set of 4 - Large Metal Casters approx 5" high 63.34
1 - Roll of black Flex-Tape 4" wide, 5 feet long (to place on casters) 11.69
4 - 6 foot long - aluminum corner angles - for vertical edges 46.76
2 - 8 foot long - aluminum corner angles - to cut for horizontal edges 24.64
1 - Neiko Multi-Purpose Power Hole Punch Kit  (to punch through aluminum angles 24.45
1 - 11oz spray can Rust-Oleum Oil Rubbed Bronze 5.56
300 - Decotacks Upholstery Nails 7/16" width (3 packs of 100 at $7.90) 23.70
8 - Antrader 8pcs Metal Corner Protectors Tone 2.8" x 2.8" x 1.2" 14.69
50 - Glarks 5 x 25mm Stainless Steel Shelf Pins 8.84
100 - Jocon PVC Flexible Vinyl Round End Caps  Inner dimension 5mm (For shelf pins) 6.99
8 - 4-29/32" Long Traditional Corner Brackets for Barn Doors 43.84
4 - Chalk / Dry Erase Boards 23.85" x 35.5"  (for back of cabinet 21.80
1 - Bundle of severe weathered lath 1.5" width x 6 feet long, .375 thick. 10 pieces - used for background of exposed shelf area of cabinet 8.63
3 - 1/4" Maple plywood 1.98' x 3.98' 39.09
4 - Severe Weather (Common: 1-in X 2-in x 8-ft; Actual: 0.625-in x 1.375-in x 8-ft) #1 Treated Lumber  - Used as trim around cabinet doors 8.16
2 boxes  - Weaber Weathered Hardwood Boards - 8 boards in package measuring - 1/2" x 4" x 48" - 10.5 sq ft  for $24.98 x 2 boxes  (Had 2/3 of one box left over) 49.96
6 each - Colonial Style H or butt hinges 3.5" x 1.5" Matte Black Finish - pack of 2 hinges - bought about 3 years ago at Lowes (no longer sold there) Item 0229484, Model #32155PKXLGLW2000009-012016. Distributed by L G Sourcing, Inc. 9.00
3 - Ironcraft 3 inch Center to Center Cabinet Pull 12.15
Misc - Sandpaper, Glue, Paint Brush, Caulk, Brush Cleaner, Finishing Nails 40.00
   
Total $634.16

 

Cutting Costs

If you are making this cabinet and you want to cut costs, the biggest savings would be on the wood used.  If you switch from whitewood boards to pine plywood, that you have to cut, this will cut down on the costs.  You could also use a thinner wood than 3/4".  However, if you do this, you should use a full sheet of plywood on the back to stabilize the cabinet, instead of dry erase board.

If you have access to weathered wood, without having to purchase it, that will save another $50 or so.
Putting It All Together

Most folks would assemble the cabinet and then paint it.  After years of doing this and being less physically flexible now, I have switched around some of the tasks to make it easier on my back and hips.

The first thing I did was to start the painting process.  I knew each piece of the furniture would need at least two coats of paint.  Why paint first?  Because it is easier to sand and paint a level piece of wood on a workhorse than to contort myself to paint upside down and all around on an assembled piece.

The first piece I painted was the bottom of the cabinet.  Why am I painting the bottom where no one will see it?  To seal the wood from moisture.  If the wood is sealed, there will be less moisture damage if there is a flood or if one of the dogs decide to mark their territory.  Remember.....dog proof.

The next thing I dealt with were the casters.  Get the Flex-Tape wrapped on the wheels before they were attached to the furniture base.  The Flex-Tape was 4" wide and the wheels were 2".  So I cut the tape in half.  Length was 12" to cover the wheel.  In retrospect, black duct tape wrapped around 2 or 3 times would also work.

Then I attached the casters to the base.  WHAT???  Why not install the casters last?  It is because of the weight of the casters.  These puppies are heavy.  Easier to install the wheels now, when upside down is easily done on a counter top.  The caster will then be covered with plastic during the rest of the assembly.


Flex-Tape going on wheel


Flex-Tape on wheel

To attach the hex bolts the caster manufacturer had provided, I needed to pre-drill the holes just shy of the bolt size. They were the perfect length for 3/4" thick lumber.

All four casters were attached. I noticed that a couple of the wheels were mounted a little crooked, so I adjusted the caster so it would roll straight.

The 2 casters without the lock are rigid.  The 2 casters with the lock, swivel.


Caster being attached to cabinet bottom


Caster now attached to cabinet piece

The next thing to tackle were the holes for adjustable shelf pins.  Four sides of the 6 foot vertical boards needed to have the 240 (60 on each side) holes drilled. 

Get Jig-gy With It -- It would just be silly to mark measurements for the holes on the wood and drill 240 times.  So I made a jig out of a scrap piece of decking board I had.  Any piece of scrap lumber will do or peg board.  I wanted a sufficient number of holes for the shelves so the shelving will be more flexible.  I measured so that 4 rows of DVD cases can be stored.  Then I added a couple of holes above and below and another hole in-between those.  So 15 holes X 2 for each section, upper and lower. 

Of note, for the jig measurements, I used the metric system.  Working with 16th and 32nd's of an inch is just mentally exhausting, particularly when trying to divide 35.625" into 4 equal sections minus (.75 x 3 - shelf thickness).  It was just easier to use millimeters.  

First I marked on my jig the three major measurements (for the DVD storage).  From the bottom, the first hole is at 211mm.  The second hole at 441mm then the third hole at 671mm.  Then I went back to the first hole at 211mm and made 2 more hole above it 25mm apart (about an inch).  Then went to the second and third holes and made two more holes above and below each hole.  Then two more holes between the 3rd and 2nd hole group and the 1st and 2nd hole group.


Lower half of shelf pin holes being drilled.  One set done.  Jig clamped on other side ready for the drill.

Once the measurements on the jig were marked, I carefully drilled the holes in the jig with a 5mm drill bit (the width of the shelf pins).  To keep the drill bit from skating around the surface, messing up my jig, I started with a smaller drill bit and worked my way up to the 5mm.

To keep the drill bit from going all the way through the wood, I created a stop with masking tape.  I just wrapped masking tape around the drill bit where I needed it to stop.  About half way through the wood.  The tape stayed in place for all 240 holes.  So no need to make a stop with scrap lumber.

With my completed jig, all I needed to do was clamp the jig in place and drill the holes on the four sections of each board.  I set the holes 2 inches from the sides for the left, center left, and right pieces of wood.  For the center right, I went to about 1.5 inches so the holes would not drill through to the holes on the center left, since this is the same piece of wood.

After drilling the holes, I sanded the rough spots down and sanded the whole boards in preparation for the paint.
Painting - No pictures of doing this. Because it is painting.....boring.  I will explain what process I used to get the finish I wanted.

The first coat of paint was the Espresso.  Which is a blackish brown.  I discovered quickly that 2 coats of Espresso would almost cover any wood grain.  I wanted the wood grain to show.  However, I liked the darkness of the stain for giving the wood a weathered or distressed almost burnt look.  Which is what I am going for.  So after applying the first coat of Espresso and sanding with 320 grit sandpaper, I then did a 2nd coat with a lighter stain.  I chose the Pecan color using the same type of Polyshade.
Assembly - After most of the wood was painted and sanded, I assembled the shelf before applying the final coat of paint.

While I was painting, I had pre-drilled the holes where I would be inserting the screws.  So it was just a matter of laying everything on the ground and screwing everything together.  The screws I used were Wood Flat Phillips # 8 x 1 3/4 in.  4 screws were used for each area attached.

Which was the bottom and top to left, right, and center pieces.  Center shelves on the side.  Left center shelf onto center piece.  Right center shelf has just one screw in the center holding onto the scrap wood attached to center piece to support it.

The 1 x 3 trim board was attached to the sides, center, top, and center shelves with 1 1/2" finishing nails.

The whole shelf is very strong and sturdy.  No wobbling at all.

Of note: Some edges were not painted because they will be covered with the painted aluminum angles.


Cabinet assembled.
Needs some sanding and the final coat of paint.

Shelves - The 8 foot long whiteboards were used to make the shelves.  Cheaper to buy 8 foot long boards to cut into shelves than shorter boards.  Each whiteboard made 4 shelves with a little left over. 


Twelve shelves cut and being painted

The shelves were originally 11.75 inches deep (the width of the board).  However, I trimmed off around 1/4" to allow for the depth of the cabinet doors which would be thicker than 3/4" (the thickness of the wood).

Then the shelves were painted the two coats of paint on both sides.
Faux Steel and Rivet Trim Around Edges of Cabinet - To get the look of steel trim and rivets, I used the aluminum angles and the upholstery tacks.

First I needed to sand the aluminum angles to "rough" them up a little so they would take the paint better.  I then cleaned them well to get off any oil or sticker adhesive. 

Then I needed to punch all of the holes.  After marking the aluminum every 3", I punched the holes with the power punch using the 3/32" width.  Since I was going through 16 gauge aluminum, it was not easy.  Trying to hold the puncher with 2 hands was difficult for me and I kept slamming my hands together or into other body parts when the punch finally made it through the metal.  I ended up sitting on the garage floor using the floor as leverage and just pushed down on the top handle.  Much easier!!!

Of note: I DID NOT punch holes or place upholstery tacks on the parts of the angles that are not seen.  There are no tacks used on the back, top, and underneath.

For the shorter aluminum pieces, that go horizontally on the cabinet, I cut them with a hacksaw first, then punched the holes.

After waiting for a day with a temperature above 40 degrees and no winds, I was able to spray paint the aluminum pieces outside.  I used by ole favorite paint that I have used on dozens of projects.....Rust-Oleum Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze.

Of note: They have this same color in another style of can with a fancy top.  Don't buy it.  The nozzle clogs up and cannot be cleaned easily or the stylized fancy spray trigger breaks.  You get more bang for your buck with the standard spray can.


Aluminum angles with holes punched, painted, and ready to install on cabinet.
Shorter piece has clear (white when wet) caulk setting inside corner of angle.

With the aluminum painted, I was ready to install some of the pieces.

To install all of the vertical 6" long pieces, I would need to put on the back of the cabinet first.  I had not bought this yet.  So I just installed the front vertical and all of the horizontal pieces.

The upholstery tacks were easy to hammer through the whiteboard with a rubber mallet. 3-4 light taps were all that were needed since I was not going through metal.

To hold the angle in-place until all of the tacks were hammered in, I used my stand-by adhesive......clear paint-able caulk. 

Why caulk and not glue?  Glue is too runny. Caulk is cheaper. Clear dries clear, incase it oozes out somewhere.

First I put the caulk on each surface and let it set for 15-20 minutes.  At this point, the caulk has dried out a bit and is just tacky enough.  I then firmly press the angle in place. 


 Aluminum angle glued in place with clear caulk.  Then upholstery tacks inserted in holes and hammered in with rubber mallet.

For the eight corner barn door brackets that I was just going to use for decoration, they now have a function.  The brackets now help support the horizontal trim pieces attached on the top and middle shelf of the cabinet.

When attaching these pieces of trim to the cabinet frame, I realized that there was nothing holding the trim on at the lower end of the trim.  I thought about buying some small brackets and screwing them on the inside of the cabinet.  Then I realized that I had already purchased the decorative brackets, so I used them to support the corners. Now form follows function.


Corner brackets supporting trim piece nailed
onto middle shelf front


Getting ready to attach aluminum bar at the top and the corner brackets to support trim. Clear caulk setting.

Before I could finish up installing the last 2 vertical aluminum angles on the rear side corners, I needed to put the back of the cabinet on.

Back Panels - When purchasing the materials for this cabinet, I did not buy what I needed for the back of the cabinet and the doors.  So I needed to make another trip to the hardware store.

For the back of the cabinet, the simplest thing to do was to buy a piece of plywood, cut off around 22.5 inches and nail it on the back.  Problem....only needed thin plywood, around 1/4".  If I was worried about the stability of this cabinet, I would go thicker.  However, it is solid without any additional support 

BUT......My SUV cannot fit a full sheet of plywood and something this thin will snap in half, if you try to tie it on top.  Lowes does cut lumber, however, the rough blade they use would destroy a thin piece of plywood.  Sooooooo I opted for pre-cut pieces that measure 2 x 4 feet.  BUT while I was looking at these boards in the store, I noticed some chalk / dry erase boards shelved in the same area.  Black on one side and white on the other.  Wood was around $14.  Dry erase board $6.
I went with the cheaper dry erase / chalk boards.  The white side would face the wall.  The black side would be inside the cabinet.  After the cabinet is full and the doors are on, you won't be able to see the black background.

I needed at least 36" to cover each section of the back.  However, the boards were just shy of this height.  So I carefully aligned the bottom level of the board to the top of the shelf.  Since there was no way to nail it along this edge, I taped it with white duct tape.

I measured the height of the wall outlets and cut out the board to accommodate the outlets and anything plugged in them when the cabinet was against the wall.

Lath Background - For the open shelf area....the upper left quarter with no door....I decided to make a background.

During my initial shopping trip for the cabinet materials I came across this really nasty bundle of lath.  I grabbed it, thinking I may use it for the cabinet doors.  They were so rough, I scrapped that idea. But, they would work as an interesting backdrop.


2 panels attached to the left side.
Hole cut out for the 2 outlets and cables.

The dry erase board in the back of this section was the last to install.  I tapped the board in place on the back of the cabinet.  Then traced the outer edges on the inside.  This way I would know where to glue the lath on the board.

I first cut the lath to the length needed, 35.5", until I had enough going across the width.

 


Rough lath boards cut to length, 35.5"

The lath wood was then stained 4 different colors.

After the stain dried, I glued the lath onto the black side of the board with wood glue.

When the lath glue dried, the decorated dry erase board was nailed in place on the cabinet.

After the back was nailed on, I installed the last 2 pieces of vertical aluminum angles and hammered in the upholstery tacks.


Stained lath being glued onto chalk board side of board

The metal corner protectors were then added to the corners of the cabinet over the aluminum corner angles.

I like the idea of having 4 separate panels on the back instead of one.  If the cabinet is moved to another area and needs different access, just one panel can be taken off and replaced if needed, instead of the entire back.

At this point the cabinet is just about complete.  Time to roll it inside to keep the garage dust off it.

Before moving it in, I found the stud in the wall at the top of where the cabinet would be.  I would be attaching a bracket to hold the shelf against the wall. 
 
The cabinet is solid, but it is narrow and tall. If one of our large dogs jumped up onto a shelf, they could tip the cabinet over.  Better to anchor it to a wall to be safe.


Bracket attached at top of wall to anchor cabinet


Back of cabinet complete.  Aluminum angles and upholstery tacks added to edges.  Corner protectors added.  Large hole in back is for outlets and plugs. Small hole is for the light plug to go through.


Cabinet in place in living room.  Shelves installed.  Cables and a surge protector
tucked into bottom shelf.


Cabinet in place in living room.  Shelves installed.  Cables and a surge protector
tucked into bottom shelf.

For the lamp, a hole was drilled into the back of the middle shelf.  The cord goes through the hole then in back of the shelves in the lower left side.  The cord then exits out of a tiny hole in the back then into the  big hole in the back to the surge protector.

Close-up of lath background is shown at the right.  What looks like white between the lath in the center is actually the camera flash bouncing off the glossy black board.  In normal light, all you see is lath.

All that is left to do, are the doors to the three sections of the cabinet.



 


Close-up of lath background.  What looks like white between the lath in the center is actually the flash bouncing off the glossy black board.  In normal light, all you see is lath.

Cabinet Doors

For the cabinet doors, I bought pre-cut 2 x 4 feet maple boards.  1/4 inch thick.  I needed to go thin because there would be a lot glued onto the front.

For the frame of the doors, I used the treated yellow pine lumber 1 x 2 x 8 feet.  I came across this wood when I was walking around the lumber section.  It is a little rougher than the fancier moulding but a whole hell of a lot cheaper.  At about $2 for 8 feet, it is a deal.  I will probably use this lumber for some future projects. 

The yellow pine was cut with mitered corners for each door.

The trim was then glued onto the three maple boards.

When the glue set, the doors were sanded down and painted the first coat of paint.


Yellow pine trim glued onto 1/4" maple board edges

While the paint was drying on the cabinet door, I got started on cutting the weather wood wall planks.  I had one day to get all of these cut outdoors with my table saw before some bad weather came.  No sawing allowed in the garage where we park our cars.

I first ripped the 4" planks to 1/2 their width.  I then cut them to size to fit half of the face of the door.


Weathered wood planks and spray painted center being glued onto front of painted door

For the horizontal center piece of the doors, I cut some scrap lumber to a 1" width, to match the aluminum angles.  I then spray painted the wood with the oil rubbed bronze paint.  I nailed in upholstery tacks every 3" again, to mimic the look of the edges of the cabinet.

Everything was then glued onto the front of the door.

After the glue had dried, the whole door was painted a coat of the Pecan paint.

After the paint dried, I was ready to install the doors.


Weathered wood planks and spray painted center
being glued onto front of painted door

The cabinet doors ended up being fairly heavy.  I was not sure the hinges I was going to use, would support the door.  I had enough hinges to put 3 hinges on each door if needed.

I worried for nothing.  The 2 hinges worked just fine.  In fact, the door open with great ease and close flush without any mechanism to hold them closed.

I did stick on a little cabinet door bumper on a shelf inside each compartment so it won't bang when it is closed.

The final step was installing the door pulls. 

The completed cabinet is shown to the right. 

Sorry for the watermark.  It is only a matter of time before a bunch of bozos ignore copyright laws and copy this image and post it all over the internet like it was their's.  Including the foreign companies who will eventually manufacture a cheap particle board knock-off of my cabinet.
 


Completed cabinet

All images on this page are copyrighted

 

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Gate From Hell
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How to fix holes in a wrought iron screen door and replace screen
How to Make Your Own Door
- Crawl Space Door
How to Winterize a Swamp (Evaporative) Cooler
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Oklahoma Home Facelift -- Aluminum Siding and Paint
OMG!  The sink was leaking the whole time we were away?
Raising the Roof - Garage Roof Replacement
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Rolling Cabinet
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Why is My Swamp (Evaporative) Cooler Blowing Hot Air?
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