Laurel's Adventures in Home Repair
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Master Bathroom Shower Area / Remodel (continued)

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The next stage of the project involved both the plumber and the construction guys.  They added the drywall to the area behind the toilet. 

A new pipe and flange was added for the toilet water source and that "heaving" piece of lead pipe under the toilet was replaced with pvc.

The shower tray was placed and hooked up with the plumbing.

The plumber also put in the universal valve for the shower before the cement board was installed.

Cement board was placed on the floor.  The damaged areas on the drywall by the shower were cut out and replaced.

The cement board was then added to the shower walls and the ceiling was scraped and texture was reapplied.  No popcorn!

They needed me to finish the ceiling and the fixtures at this point. 
For the ceiling, there were four fixtures I had to deal with.  A skylight, a heat lamp, an exhaust fan, and a regular light fixture.  For the heat lamp frame and the exhaust fan cover I decided to sand down the chrome and spray paint them white.  I planned to replace the light fixture with a new fixture that matched the one in the main bathroom.  The skylight needed smaller moulding to frame it.  The old moulding was too big and would get in the way of the new light fixture.


Exhaust fan opening before spray painting

The exhaust fan opening was pretty gross. Even with a newly painted cover, it would not totally cover this grossness as seen on the left.  I decided to spray paint it.  I cleaned up what I could.  I first taped off the electrical fixtures inside of it so paint would not get on them.  I then taped a clear plastic bag around the opening to seal it off. 
I then made a small hole for the spray can and taped around the can and the opening.  I then sprayed the heck out of the opening to cover all the brown stuff. I left the plastic bag on the opening until the paint dried.  No spray splatter or strong fumes.

The photo above shows the completed ceiling paint job and the new and newly painted fixtures.  I also painted the inside of the skylight opening which had never been painted.

The photo on the right shows the completed ceiling and the cement board shower wall with the seam sealer on it.  The next stage would be the tile layer to come in and place the tiles on the shower wall.

At this point I had decided to use wallpaper on the walls.  The old wallpaper had come off easily and most of the walls were in good shape.

I went with another textured style that would match the tiles in the room.  I wanted a textured paper to mask some of the wall flaws. I had wanted to use the fossil paper I had used in the main bathroom but the green in the wallpaper would not match the tiles in this bathroom.

 

The style of wallpaper I selected was the Corsica pattern available at Lowe's.  The website calls it beige but it is actually more of an off white with flecks of gold in it.

The photo below shows the bathroom after the tiles had been placed in the shower stall and on the floors.

The tile layer came in the next day to do the grouting. The grout color I selected was brown.  The same color that was used to grout the floors in the main bathroom.
The other thing I did before the bullnose tiles on the edge went on; was add silicone.  Where the cement board met the drywall I put a bunch of clear silicone to protect the drywall in case there was ever a failure in the future of the tiles along the edge.

I also planned to use some polystyrene shoe moulding along the edge of the bullnose after I put the wallpaper. This would seal the edge and further protect the drywall from any water damage.
 


Polystyrene shoe moulding

 

Why polystyrene moulding you ask? It is waterproof and it won't warp like wood if it gets wet.  The only drawback is, it dents easily if hit.  But at only $2.28 for an 8 ft piece, it is easy to replace if needed.

Before the toilet was put in, I finished the moulding on the floor behind the toilet and finished wallpapering the walls.

Moulding was also added to the corners with quarter round moulding to seal the edges of the wallpaper and to provide a finished look.

You can see the polystyrene moulding along the bullnose tile of the shower stall.  Wood moulding was used elsewhere.

I also made a new frame and access door to the shower valve access on the side of the wall.  I covered it with the wallpaper and added a simple knob.

Moulding was also added to the wall along the ceiling.

The shower door was installed. The only thing I could not figure out, were the screws included with the shower door.  They were all the standard silver color which was very visible against the oil rubbed bronze finish.  What I did after the side tracks were screwed into the wall was to spray the end of a q-tip with some oil rubbed bronze spray paint and dabbed it on the screw heads quickly before the paint dried. This did the trick.  The screw heads now match the shower door frame.

The shower valve and shower head were installed by the plumber.  A grab bar was added to the shower wall. Again making sure the bolts went into the studs.  In addition, I built another over the toilet shelf with a towel bar.  This cabinet fits tightly between the wall with a space left at the top because of the exhaust vent. 

On the cupboard doors I used the same wallpaper technique with the spray painted hammered brown colored decorative moulding, that I used in the main bathroom. 

This brown moulding was also used along the shower tile at the ceiling.  Clear silicone was used to adhere the moulding to the tile.

The butterfly on the wall was purchased on close-out in the garden section at Lowe's. It is made of metal and glass.


The finished floor in the bathroom

The corners of the shower tile, the tile edges along the shower tray, the edges of the shower door on the inside, and where the shower tray meets the floor, were all sealed with clear silicone.  I decided not to place moulding along the shower tray and floor.
I did purchase an Oxo shower drain cover I saw at Target.  It fits exactly over the drain in the shower tray and traps all of the hair.  The silicone edge keeps it in place, so it is hard to move with your feet.  The one I purchased has black silicone around the edge, which I preferred.  I would have preferred an oil rubbed bronze finish.  When the drain starts to show wear I will then give it a coat of oil rubbed bronze spray paint.

I also got rid of the cheap plastic flush handle on the toilet and replaced it with a metal oil rubbed bronze handle.
The shower area of this bathroom is now complete.

What was the total cost of this re-model?  Prices below include all shipping charges and sales tax. In other words, the final price I paid for an item or service.  My labor was not included.
 
Shower tray $321.04
Shower door 601.65
Shower faucet and universal valve 185.18
Grab bar 61.41
Ceramic tile 330.47
Contractor labor and materials 2795.94
Wallpaper (approx) 40.00
Moulding  (approx) 30.00
Ceiling light fixture 40.00
Paint, caulk, silicone, spray paint, misc.  (approx) 30.00
Over the toilet cabinet.  I used existing wood I had.  Estimated cost 50.00
Total $4485.69
The other section of this bathroom is the vanity section outside of the shower / toilet room.  This will be done at a later time and added to this website when I get around to it. The photo below shows the current outdated vanity and sink.
I do want to keep the large porcelain sink.  It is large and has no chips.  In other words, it is in great shape. 

The tile counter top will be replaced along with the vanity cabinet doors and drawer cover.  I hate the light fixture, so that will be changed.

The carpeting will be ripped out and the tile in the shower/toilet room on the left will be extended into this section.

I want to add some cabinets on the wall to the right that go up to the ceiling.  It is hard to see, but the ceiling slants upward.

I plan to do this work myself.  The only thing I have purchased so far was the brown floor tiles that I will need.  Interceramic had a weekend sale, so I picked up the tiles I would need, while it was cheaper.

Vanity Area Facelift
December 2017 - February 2018

This area remained unchanged until the end of 2017, when I decided to sell this house.

In Dec 2017 I finished the flooring.  New moulding was placed on top of flooring and around door.  The vanity was given fresh paint and new hardware.  A new light fixture was added.  This area along with the attached bedroom was also given a ceiling tile treatment to cover the popcorn texture.

I did not get around to ripping out the vanity as I had originally wanted.

What did I work on after this renovation?  See the balcony...

The Projects
HOME PAGE
Backsplash in Kitchen
Balcony
Bench - 2 x 4 Basics Flip-Top Bench Table
Brick Replacement and Brick Accent Painting
Ceiling Tiles
Closet Built from Scratch
Column Wraps for 4" x 8" Posts
Curb Appealing Street Numbers
Cut Paper Artwork - Kitchen
Door Knobs and Cabinet Pulls
Doors
Dry rotted wood beam repair and paint
Doggy door installed on wrought iron screen door - Repair of door
Duct Work
Faux Brick and Tile
- Stucco wall patio and backyard stairs
    using concrete patch

- Painted tile pool deck (Oklahoma)
Fire Place Hearth Shelves
Garage Facelift - Closet, etc
Gate From Hell
Horrible Man Cave (rec room) Total Renovation
House Entrance Renovation
How to fix holes in a wrought iron screen door and replace screen
How to Make Your Own Door
- Crawl Space Door
How to Winterize a Swamp (Evaporative) Cooler
Kitchen Counter Tops - Faux Granite
Kitchen Facelift
Kitchen Light Facelift
Laundry Room Cupboards
Main Bathroom Repair / Remodel
Master Bathroom Shower Area Stripped to the Studs
Oklahoma Home Facelift -- Aluminum Siding and Paint
OMG!  The sink was leaking the whole time we were away?
Raising the Roof - Garage Roof Replacement
Rock Wall Repair
Siding - Exterior
Solar Lighting Journey
Stair Door
Stairs to the Lower Level
Stencils - How to Make Your Own Stencils for Paint Projects
Storage Shed / Closet
Storm Shelter (Oklahoma)
Stucco Wall Repair and Paint
Swamp (Evaporative) Cooler Maintenance
Wrought Iron Facelift Outside
Weather Stripping (doors)
Why is My Swamp (Evaporative) Cooler Blowing Hot Air?